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Snake Keeper Guide See available animals on MorphMarket

Setting up a snake enclosure

Short answer

Make the enclosure escape-proof and well ventilated, at least as long as the snake and a third of its length wide and high[1][2]. Put a hide at each end, a heavy water bowl, and a heat source at one end only. Run it for a week before the snake arrives[1].

How big?

VCA's vets say to give the largest cage you can; small species and juveniles often do fine in 10–20 gallons, or a plastic tub with air holes, then move up as they grow[2]. The RSPCA gives a simple rule for adults: length at least equal to the snake's length, width and height at least a third of it[1].

The RSPCA sizing rule, with their own examples
Snake lengthMinimum enclosure (L × W × H)Source
120 cm (about 4 ft)120 × 40 × 40 cm (about 47 × 16 × 16 in)Royal python sheet[3]
150 cm (about 5 ft)150 × 50 × 50 cm (about 59 × 20 × 20 in)Corn snake sheet[1]
180 cm (about 6 ft)180 × 60 × 60 cm (about 71 × 24 × 24 in)Kingsnake sheet[4]

Make it escape-proof

Snake cages need good ventilation, sealed seams and a secure top that locks[2]. Snakes that keep pushing at the lid or glass can injure their noses; extra hides, climbing structures and a visual barrier on the outside of the glass help[5].

What goes inside

  • Hides. At least one at each end, so the snake doesn't have to choose between feeling safe and being the right temperature[1]. Snug is better: the coiled snake should touch the sides[1].
  • A humid hide. A hide with damp moss gives a pocket of higher humidity[1].
  • Water. A heavy ceramic bowl that won't tip, big enough to soak in[2].
  • Branches and rough surfaces. For climbing and for rubbing against during a shed[2]. Sterilise natural branches with boiling water first[1].

Substrate: where the sources differ

VCA's vets recommend newspaper, butcher paper, towels or artificial turf, and advise avoiding sand, gravel, wood shavings, corncob, walnut shell and cat litter (except for burrowing species) because they are hard to clean and can cause impaction if swallowed[2]. They say to avoid cedar shavings entirely, as cedar is toxic to reptiles[2].

The RSPCA prefers reptile soils or soil and sand mixes so the snake can burrow, and treats paper as a temporary option[1]. Either way: if you use a loose substrate, consider feeding in a separate tub[2], and for burrowers like hognoses give them depth to dig[6].

Cleaning routine

  • Remove droppings and urates every 24–72 hours and wash out the cage weekly[2].
  • Clean and disinfect the water bowl every 24–72 hours; many snakes eliminate in it[2].
  • Wash your hands after handling the snake or anything in the enclosure. Reptiles can carry Salmonella[7].

Before the snake comes home

Set up the enclosure and run it for a week first, so you can get the heat and humidity right without disturbing a new animal[1].

Sources

  1. RSPCA: Corn snake care
  2. VCA Animal Hospitals: Snakes: housing
  3. RSPCA: How to care for a royal python
  4. RSPCA: Kingsnake
  5. VCA Animal Hospitals: Common problems in pet snakes
  6. Canobie Lake Veterinary Hospital: Caring for your western hognose snake
  7. U.S. Food and Drug Administration: Salmonella, feeder rodents, and pet reptiles and amphibians

Sources last checked 2026-10-20.