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Snake Keeper Guide See available animals on MorphMarket

Ball python care

Python regius

Short answer

Ball pythons (called royal pythons in the UK) are West and Central African constrictors that reach about 3–5 feet[1]. The RSPCA sets the basking end at 30–32°C (86–90°F), the cool end at 24–26°C (75–79°F) and humidity around 50–60%[2]. Adults eat a frozen-thawed rodent about every 7–14 days[2]. Plan for a long commitment: the RSPCA says they can live longer than 20 years in captivity[2].

Quick facts
Adult lengthAbout 3–5 feet, females usually larger[1]. The RSPCA gives around 150 cm (about 5 ft)[2].
LifespanLonger than 20 years in captivity[2]. Oakland Zoo estimates 20–30 years in human care[1]; VCA says 10–20 years depending on care[3].
Basking end30–32°C (86–90°F)[2]
Cool end24–26°C (75–79°F)[2]
NightKeep non-light heat on at night, on a thermostat[2]
HumidityAround 50–60% at the cool end, misted up to about 80% and allowed to drop between[2]
Adult feedingOne suitably sized frozen-thawed rodent every 7–14 days[2]

What kind of snake is it?

Wild ball pythons live in savanna grassland and open forest from Senegal east to South Sudan and Uganda[1]. They spend much of their time on the ground or in burrows, are mostly active at night, and curl into a tight ball with the head tucked inside when frightened[1]. They are listed as Near Threatened, partly because of collection for the pet trade[1], so buy captive-bred.

Enclosure

The RSPCA rule: the enclosure should be at least as long as the snake, and at least one third of the snake's length in width and height. Their example is a 120 cm (about 4 ft) snake in an enclosure at least 120 × 40 × 40 cm (about 47 × 16 × 16 in)[2].

Ball pythons get stressed in big, bare, open spaces, so give plenty of cover and several hides at both ends[2]. Each hide should be snug enough that the coiled snake touches the sides, and one should hold moist moss as a humid hide[2]. Sturdy branches are worth adding; they do climb[2].

Heat and light

Put the heat at one end so the snake can pick its temperature. RSPCA targets: basking zone 30–32°C (86–90°F), cool end 24–26°C (75–79°F)[2]. Every heat source goes on a thermostat, lamps get a guard, and you check both ends daily with a thermometer at snake level, because thermostats drift[2]. Unlike its corn snake and kingsnake sheets, the RSPCA's royal python sheet calls for non-light-emitting heat at night[2].

The RSPCA recommends a low-output UVB tube giving a gradient from UV index 1.0 in the basking zone to zero in the shade, lower for albino morphs, with lights on a 12-hours-on, 12-hours-off timer[2]. Vets are not unanimous on UVB for snakes; see heating and lighting.

Humidity and water

Measure humidity at the cool end. The RSPCA aims for about 50–60%, misting to boost it toward 80% and letting it fall back between mistings[2]. If it stays high all the time, add ventilation: constant damp plus poor airflow is the usual cause of the respiratory infections ball pythons are prone to[2]. A water bowl big enough to soak in goes at the cool end and gets changed at least daily[2].

Feeding

Feed frozen-thawed rodents, offered with tongs, roughly as wide as the widest part of the snake's body[2]. Young snakes typically eat every five or six days; adults every seven to 14 days, depending on weight, so weigh your snake regularly[2]. Wait 48 hours after a meal before handling[2].

Ball pythons are known for refusing food. A new snake may not eat for weeks to months after the move[3], and some skip meals seasonally[2]. A cold enclosure, stress and illness are other causes[4]. Check temperatures first. If a snake stops eating suddenly or loses weight, call a reptile vet[2]. More in feeding frozen-thawed prey.

Handling

Scoop the snake up with one hand near the head and one nearer the tail, supporting the whole body. Around 10–15 minutes out of the enclosure at a time is safe, depending on room temperature[2]. Skip handling in the first week at home, during a shed, and after you've touched prey[2]. Keep one snake per enclosure; they are solitary[2].

Health watch

  • Whistling breaths or reaching up and gasping: possible respiratory infection[2].
  • Long soaks in the water bowl: check for mites[2].
  • Weight loss or diarrhoea: possible internal parasites[2].
  • Eye caps still in place after a shed: see a vet[2]. See shedding problems.

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Sources

  1. Oakland Zoo: Royal (ball) python
  2. RSPCA: How to care for a royal python
  3. VCA Animal Hospitals: Owning a pet snake
  4. VCA Animal Hospitals: Common problems in pet snakes

Sources last checked 2026-10-20.