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Western hognose snake care

Heterodon nasicus

Short answer

Western hognoses are small burrowing snakes from the western US grasslands. Females reach 24–36 inches, males 14–24[1]. Canobie Lake Veterinary Hospital recommends a basking spot of 90–95°F (32–35°C), a cool side of 70–75°F (21–24°C) and humidity of 30–50%[1]. They are rear-fanged and mildly venomous but not dangerous to people[1], and young ones can be picky eaters[1].

Quick facts
Adult lengthFemales 24–36 in, males 14–24 in[1]
Lifespan15–20 years[1]; Peak Exotic says 10–20[2]
Basking spot90–95°F (32–35°C)[1]
Warm side80–85°F (27–29°C)[1]
Cool side70–75°F (21–24°C)[1]
Humidity30–50%[1][2]
Adult feedingOnce a week[1]; Peak Exotic says every 5–7 days[2]

What kind of snake is it?

Western hognoses are small, diurnal snakes from the grasslands and semi-arid western United States[1]. The upturned snout is a digging tool; they spend a lot of time underground[1]. Their defensive show is famous: hissing, puffing up and playing dead. That is stress, not aggression[1].

Are they venomous?

Mildly. Western hognoses are rear-fanged and mildly venomous but not considered dangerous to humans; bites are rare, usually happen during feeding mistakes, and reactions are usually mild and local[1]. Canobie Lake's vets still advise seeking medical attention if you are bitten[1].

Enclosure and substrate

Canobie Lake recommends 5–10 gallons for hatchlings and juveniles, and at least 36 × 18 inches of floor (a 40-gallon breeder) for adults[1]. Peak Exotic gives a 20-gallon minimum and says bigger is better[2]. The larger figure is the safer target.

Substrate matters more for this species than most: give at least 2–3 inches of something they can dig in, such as reptile soil, coconut fibre or fine aspen[1]. Avoid pine and cedar[1][2]. Peak Exotic also says to avoid sand[2]. Add a hide on the warm side and one on the cool side, and a water dish the snake can coil in[1].

Heat, light and humidity

Canobie Lake's targets: basking 90–95°F (32–35°C), warm side 80–85°F (27–29°C), cool side 70–75°F (21–24°C), nights in the low 70s °F[1]. Every heater goes on a thermostat[1]. Keep humidity low, 30–50%[1][2]; lightly moisten the soil about once a week and never let it get waterlogged[1].

Both vet practices recommend UVB for this day-active species[1][2]. Canobie Lake suggests a 5–10% linear tube, replaced every 8–10 months[1].

Feeding picky eaters

Wild hognoses mostly eat amphibians; in captivity they should eat frozen-thawed rodents[1]. Canobie Lake's schedule: pinkies every 3–4 days for hatchlings, then once a week for adults, with prey about as wide as the snake's body[1].

Young hognoses are known for refusing rodents. Tricks the vets suggest: warm the prey thoroughly, scent it with tuna juice, and offer it on tongs[1]. The biggest help is buying a snake that has already eaten three or four rodent meals in a row[1]. If the snake eats on loose substrate, it can swallow some; feeding in a separate container lowers that risk[1].

Hognoses often slow down from November through February. Keep offering meals and track weight[2].

Health watch

  • Few or no droppings after feeding on substrate: possible impaction, see a vet[1].
  • Wheezing, open-mouth breathing, mucus or bubbles: possible respiratory infection[1].
  • Swelling, scabs or discharge around the mouth: stomatitis, which needs a vet[1].
  • Canobie Lake recommends a yearly wellness exam and fecal tests twice a year[1].

See available animals on MorphMarket

Sources

  1. Canobie Lake Veterinary Hospital: Caring for your western hognose snake
  2. Peak Exotic Animal Veterinary Specialists: Husbandry guide: western hognose snake

Sources last checked 2026-10-20.